前后加起來，我在北京已經住了四十多年，算是一個老北京了。②北京的名勝古跡，北京的妙處，③我應該說是了解的；其他老北京當然也了解，但是有一點，我相信絕大多數的老北京并不了解，④這就是黎明時分以前的北京。

多少年來，我養成了一個習慣：每天早晨四點在黎明以前起床工作。我不出去跑步或散步，而是一下床就干活兒，因此我對黎明前的北京的了解是在屋子里感覺到的。我從前在什么報上讀過一篇文章，⑤講黎明時分天安門廣場上的清潔工人。那情景必然是非常動人的，可惜我從未能見到，只是心向往之而已。

四十年前，我住在城里在明朝曾經是特務機關的東廠里面。幾座深深的大院子，在最里面三個院子里只住著我一個人，朋友們都說這地方陰森可怕，晚上很少有人敢來找我，我則恰然自得。⑥每當夏夜，我起床以后，立刻就聞到院于里那些高大的馬纓花樹散發出來的陣陣幽香，這些香氣破窗而入，我于此時神清氣爽，樂不可支，連手中那一支笨拙的筆也仿佛生了花。

幾年以后，我搬到西郊來往，照例四點起床，坐在窗前工作。白天透過窗子能夠看到北京展覽館那金光閃閃的高塔的尖頂，此時當然看不到了。⑦但是，我知道，即使我看不見它，它仍然在那里挺然聳人天空，仿佛想帶給人以希望，以上進的勁頭。我仍然是樂不可支，心也仿佛飛上了高空。

過了十年，我又搬了家。這新居既沒有馬纓花，也看不到金色的塔頂，但是門前卻有一片清碧的荷塘。剛搬來的幾年，池塘里還有荷花。夏天早晨四點已經算是黎明時分。在薄暗中透過窗子可以看到接大蓮葉，而荷花的香氣也幽然襲來，⑧我顧而樂之，大有超出馬纓花和金色塔頂之上的意味了。

難道我欣賞黎明前的北京僅僅由于上述的原因嗎？不是的。三十幾年以來，我成了一個“開會迷”。⑨說老實話，積三十年之經驗，我真有點怕開會了，在白天，一整天說不定什么時候就會接到開會的通知，說一句過火的話，我簡直是提心吊膽，心里不得安寧。即使不開會，這種惴惴不安的心情總擺脫不掉。只有在黎明以前，根據我的經驗，沒有哪里會來找你開會的。⑩因此，我起床什桌子旁邊一坐，仿佛有什么近似條件反射的東西立刻就起了作用，我心里安安靜靜，一下子進入角色，拿起筆來，“文思”⑾（如果也算是文思的話）如，泉水噴涌，記憶力也像剛磨過的刀于，銳不可當。此時，我真是樂不可支，如果給我機會的話，我簡直想手舞足蹈了。

因此，我愛北京，特別愛黎明前的北京。

Predawn Beijing

Ji Xianlin
Translated by Zhang Peiji

I've been in Beijing altogether for over 40 years. So I can well call myself a long-timer of Beijing. Like all other long-timers of the city, I'm supposed to be very familiar with its scenic spots and historical sites, nay, its superb attractions. But I believe there is one thing lying unknown to most of the long-time residents - the predawn hours of Beijing.

For many years, I have been in the habit of get- ting up before daybreak to start work at four. Instead of going out for a jog or walk, I' 11 set about my work as soon as I'm out of bed. As a result, it is from inside my study that I've got the feel of predawn Beijing. Years ago, I hit upon a newspaper article about street cleaners in Tian'anmen Square at daybreak. It must have been a very moving scene, but what a pity I haven' t seen it with my own eyes. I can only picture it in my mind longingly.

Forty years ago, I lived downtown in Dongchang, a compound which had housed the secret service of the Ming Dynasty. There were inside it several deep spacious courtyards one leading into another. I was the sole dweller of the three innermost courtyards. My friends, calling this place too ghastly, seldom dared to come to see me in the evening whereas I myself found it quite agreeable. In summer, the moment I got out of bed before daybreak, I would smell the delicate fragrance of the giant silk trees coming from outside my window. Thereupon, I would feel refreshed and joyful, and the clumsy pen in my hand would seem to have become as agile as it could.

※本文作者：佚名※